A journey through Lunigiana The valley of the river
Magra, heart of the historic region called Lunigiana, appears - to the
traveller who descends from the Cisa - as a big amphitheatre that in
spring and summer is richly ornamented in green whilst in autumn it
adorns itself with the many colours of its immense woods.
In winter the candid marble tops of the Apuane mountains mix
themeselves with the white snow covered Appennines. In a few square
kilometres mother nature presents herself in an unexpected and
surprising variety of landscapes, high prairies with blackcurrant moors
and the pastures where the esteemed Zeri sheep lives; the hills with the
olive-groves, the vineyards and a trail of villages dominated by the
strict outlines of a hundred and more castles: the bottom of the Magra
valley that - as Mario Tobino wrote - winds itself like a silver eel,
with waters rich in fish and where it is still possible to bathe. This
is an ancient land, and covered by the great ancient routes: Sigerico
passed this way in 994, travelling along the Francigena, a road that in
the river Magra valley coincided with the road for Saint James of
Compostela and from which also started off the road of the Volto Santo
that lead to Lucca. Here, amongst the harshness of the mountains, the
Romans had to put up a hard fight before defeating the Ligure-apuane
people that had erected their stone idols (warriors, and large bossomed
women today on show in the Pontremoli museum) to guard the roads and the
pastures. Here during Second World War, the ancient roads and woods saw
the horrors of the war, the heroic acts of the partisans, the generous
hospitality of country people, towards those escaping from the city.
Hospitality in Lunigiana is sacred: Dante experienced it, hosted by the
Malaspina family, a famous feudal family, who left their sign in
numerous small feudal properties that surrounded the towns of Pontremoli
and Fivizzano.
A generous land with its products, its pleasant wines, were famous
already in the past for its delicate aromas which derived from a vast
variety of vines.
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